On our first visit to Rome, we felt that we would be overwhelmed with the prospect of navigating such a large city. One of the best ways to become oriented to a large city like Rome, is to hire the services of a private guide. But the cost can often be prohibitive for an individual or couple. One of the best ways to hold down costs is to combine the use of a private guide for the major sights where a licensed guide is required, and to use an unlicensed guide for seeing the day to day life of the inhabitants. We used an unlicensed guide to carry us to the small shops and cafes that most tourists never get to experience.